Bali's eternal appeal is
its discovery. It unveils itself layer by layer. The first
appeal is made by its glorious surf-pounded coastline, its
waters dark with seaweed, its powdery white beaches, each with
its own character, throbbing nightlife and dive spots. Having
drenched the traveler with the joys of the ocean, Bali then
does what the traveler loves best. She reveals her inner core.
The cultural discovery of Bali follows, with rambles through the
galleria of Ubud, the culture capital of Bali, to wood-carver's
villages, to its glorious seaside temples where its ancient
dance forms are performed in obeisance to Siwa and Wisnu. You
can't beat Bali for selling its inner core. After all, when the
only Hindu society in South-East Asia is located in the middle
of the world's largest Muslim nation, a unique hybrid tradition
is bound to emerge. And, it doesn't hurt that this fusion occurs
in an almost dreamlike tropical paradise. It's only appropriate
that, in the land where among the highest selling tours are
lessons in the art of Balinese wood-carving and sculpture, what
will be the largest Wisnu statue in the world is being built on
its southern shores.
Bali's third layer comprises the sights some distance away from
the beach HQ of Kuta and the culture HQ of Ubud. This paradise
is an emerald green hinterland of rice paddies dominated by
volcanic peaks. Tallest among them is a sacred mountain, down
whose slopes the gods will descend when they come to Bali.
Beyond these mountains are the rain-drenched jungles of Bali's
national park and a northern coast dotted with coral reefs and
black sand beaches. The HQ of this third layer is Lovina, queen
of the north.
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Brief Context: Though Hindu and Buddhist influences on
the island date back as early as the 9th century AD, the first
wave of Hindu settlers came to Bali in the 15th century from
Java, where the Hindu-Buddhist Majapahit Empire was rapidly
losing its power to Sumatra's Islamic rulers. It was at this
time that a distinct Balinese culture began to emerge, drawing
upon Hindu and Buddhist, Javanese and original Balinese
traditions alike. This culture thrives today and the Balinese
take their religious customs very seriously. Making a trip to
Bali feels like a crossing of worlds — from the serene mosques
of lava to the colorful, riotous temples of Bali. Bali's
traditional name, Pulau Seribu Pura, means island of a thousand
temples.
When the folks from neighboring Australia 'discovered' this
paradise in their vicinity, unique among Indonesia's Islands
with far greater tolerance for tiny swimsuits, they all but
colonised the Island with their own Paradise Air that links many
Australian cities to the island. Mere, there's jasmine in the
air, coral in the sea, Intense in the temples. It's so easy to
pretend that Bali is a Utopian place. everyone offers a
welcoming smile, even the smallest cafe is aesthetically
pleasing, all budgets are accommodated here. It's even
easier to ignore the dramatic impact that mass tourism has had
on the land and on the traditional lifestyle of the Balinese. A
stark reminder 1 that there is no such thing as Utopia' came on
12th October, 2002, when a bomber rained destruction in the
entertainment HQ of Kuta. But Bali weathers all storms. Keeps
smiling. And still takes all comers, so the party goes on. Yet,
despite the island's suggestive bikini shape, it retains an
integrity that the likes of its' rivals like Phuket, just don't
have. No doubt it caters to all vices, but it astutely and
successfully dons the cloak of Indonesian conservatism whenever
necessary.
There are a million and one reasons to visit the island and even
more things to do. You can swim in blue-green waters, , watch a
Balinese dance performance in a sun-lit temple courtyard, eat
roast duck in a shack by the beach, dance the night away in a
Kuta club, walk along the rim of a volcanic crater, or meander
amongst rice terraces or forest sanctuaries. Where you choose to
drop anchor and where you spend your time depends only on who
you are, or what your mood is.
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Orientation
Bali is too large to call it a destination. It is in fact a
region, large enough to need three STD codes. The heart of
tourist Bali, its most happening core area, is just north of the
airport. This is Kuta, with its beaches of Legian and Seminyak.
South of the airport is the popular Jimbaran Beach where you
will come to have a meal from the vast open-air grill on the
sand. Further south is the ancient Uluwatu Temple where you will
come to marvel at its location atop a steep cliff or watch a
Balinese barong dance. To the east of Jimbaran is Nusa Dua and
Tanjung Benoa, the upmarket tourist area of Bukit Badung. East
of Kuta are the beaches of Sanur, past Bali's capital city of
Denpasar.
North-east and slightly inland from here is Ubud, the
arts centre and home to the Monkey Forest Sanctuary. Further
north-east of Ubud, in North Bali, is the Gunung Batur volcano
and Danau Batur lake, which are east of the black sand beaches
of Lovina, located on the North Bali coast. North-east of Lovina
is Singaraja, with traditional wet markets and bargain stalls.
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Fast Facts
When to goBest Oct to Feb, Mar to May is hot
and the rest is rainy Bali Tourism Authority offices •JI Surapati 7, Denpasar
•JI Benesari 7, Kuta
•JI Raya, corner of Monkey Forest Rd, Ubud. Very informative and helpful for local goings on;
dance schedule pamphlets.
•Police Station, JI Raya Lovina Kalibukbuk.
Brochures for local activities available. Good first stop
Travel agencies
Every other storefront on Poppies Gang 1 in Kuta is a
travel agency; try Balijapa Tours (Jl Lebak Bena); Kharisma Tours (No. 2, Poppies Gang
1)
Currency exchange Denpasar Banks all over intersection of JI Arjuna and JI Gajah
Mada; Moneychangers on JI Sumatra
Kuta Moneychangers and ATMs everywhere in Kuta. Be extremely
cautious since Kuta moneychangers are notorious for cheating
tourists. You are better off using an ATM Ubud Banks, ATMs and
moneychangers all over Monkey Forest Rd Lovina ATMs all over the
place and the most convenient option. Though moneychangers all
over JI Raya Lovina and JI Binaria offer better rates than the
banks.
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Getting There
Air:A huge statue of the mythological character Ghatotkacha
greets visitors at Ngurah Rai Airport, just south of Kuta,
served by both domestic and international airlines. Garuda
Indonesia, Singapore Airlines, Qantas, Cathay Pacific, China
Airlines, Thai International and Korean Air all connect Bali to
South-East Asia, and then to India. Domestically, Garuda
Indonesia, Merpati Nusantara Airlines, Bouraq, Pelita Air
Service and Mandala all have domestic connections from Jakarta,
Medan and Jogjakarta.
Note: On departure from Bali,
you have to pay a Passenger Service Tax
Boat: There're ferry services between Java, Bali and Lombok. Ferries
are available from Ketapang in Java come to Gilimanuk on the northwest coast
every 15-30 min, 24 hours a day, and ferries to and from Lombok (every 2 hrs) come to Padangbai,
south west of Candi Dasa, on the east coast.